Ice - Breaking




I am back to Marrakesh today so that I can get my tyre and an annoying judder to my steering rack fixed (and probably more importantly, get myself a decent ‘hose-down’ before Viv arrives in a couple of days time🥰).

When I arrived, reasonably late yesterday, I set up the tent and then got talking to a Czech guy who was on his way back from the Budapest to Bamoko rally (the ‘amateurs’ version of the former Paris Dakar raid).


Great night had where I got loads of useful tips regarding desert driving and between us we killed the remaining drops of a bottle of Laphroaig I was bought by friends at the Mawsis lodge before I left the UK.

All of this happened though because yet again the classic Arabic ‘ice-breaker’ proved its worth……the humble backgammon board.



This is now the fourth or fifth time on this trip that I have ended up in conversations with either locals or fellow travellers because I have either asked to join a game or have offered a game……as a hook to start conversations it has yet again proved invaluable! What happens after that is frankly a lottery…. Either I loose money to Moroccans (twice), get drunk (once), buy a hat (once), or have really weird conversations in a mix of languages (every time) but it is being the trigger for the conversation which is all important😜

The other unexpected ice breaker (especially with the locals), has been the Shemagh which I always wear over here…..not for any political (and certainly not for fashion reasons), but because whenever I have been to the deserts before  (Jordan, Egypt, Iraq, Syria) I have always worn this particular scarf …. A lucky (but smelly) totem maybe .  The reason for this is the local association of the scarf with the Palestinian nation and the widespread concern over here (particularly in the Southern Berber areas) for the events in Gaza……I say this not to make any political point but because it has been really helpful in providing a starting point for conversations when I stop off in roadside tea shops.

For me this has been the best part of the trip so far, i.e. the opportunity to interact with Moroccans across the country.  



Since my last blog, I have worked my way up the coast stopping when knackered and wandering round the town Souks and markets……I just love the chilled nature of these places.  Yes, there is subtle pressure to buy and I have shared tea a couple of times (but not bought anything) and that has been fine….where I have bought a few things, yes we haggled (I will avoid Life of Brian quotes), but have ended up where the seller was satisfied (he would never sell if he wasn’t) and I have got what I wanted at  a price I was happy with.

Oh, the hat (and the Shemaegh).    Great value I am sure you would agree for 3 Dirham (£2.20)


Viv arrives on Thu am where we are heading off to Essouaria which many will recognise as the port of Astapor in the Game of Thrones👍

Location: Ouahat Sidi Brahim, Morocco

Comments

  1. Further up NorthMarch 4, 2024 at 3:32 PM

    Hope judder and tyre successfully corrected, enjoy next phase of your adventure.

    ReplyDelete
  2. AnonymousMarch 4, 2024 at 4:05 PM

    Ah backgammon, it's long past time we broke out the boards again here at LBU, it was a great way to spend a lunchtime. In fact, maybe we should move to the coffee shop to do it more authentically! - drb

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

There And Back Again - A Yorkshireman's Tale

Image
 So after nearly 9 weeks away, 5,800 miles and a surprisingly small amount of alcohol consumed, I finally got back to the Dale last night…….. So the Key Questions which need to be answered... 1.    Where was the Perfect Merguez? It was a surprise, but these meaty gems were surprisingly hard to find, and were not a staple on every menu as I had perhaps expected.  I probably had a good dozen different ones whilst I was there including sausages made from lamb, the traditional mutton, beef and even camel. All were good but were less spiced that I had previously experienced and whilst well flavoured lacked the heat that I expected.  One of the reasons for this is that the Moroccans  rely on accompanying dips and sauces especially Harissa paste to give this heat. The long and short therefore is that actually the best Merguez I have had in the past year is one that Tom and I (the creative hearts of sausage making at the Townend Farm Shop) created from some locally...
Read more

The Intended Route (part one - To Morocco)

Image
A Good Traveller Has No Fixed Plans and Is Not Intent on Arriving    Lao Tzu (c. 500 BC) Fair point, I can see where young Lao was coming from but to plan on spending 9 weeks wandering aimlessly across North Africa would be barking even for me! That said whilst I below show the outlines of the plan, it will be subject to change....frankly if I am enjoying a particular vista*/find a great eatery*/get invited to some Berber rave*/break-down*/get pissed*  (* delete as appropriate), I may decide to stay in a particular area for a bit 🙈🙉🙊 The Starting Point Every journey starts somewhere and for me that is the fantastic community of Kirkby Malham in Malhamdale, North Yorkshire....the map below may help orientate any soap-dodgers who were not geographically blessed at birth. A truly beautiful dale with the Cove at its head and the village itself a truly caring and inclusive community with (as all great English villages), a parish church and a pub, 'The Vic' (do make the...
Read more

Valentine’s Day Special

Image
On a rusty tub in the middle of the Bay of Biscay, just seen Neptune being sick; we are talking storms of biblical proportions.  Man has no place on boats……. To reprise the D-ream track 🎶  Departed at 1 am this morning after a very pleasant stop over to  see Lil’ Sis, the night before. The pleasures of Cheltenham however were brought down to earth by having to spend 4 hours in Portsmouth…….if Hell was a place on earth, think this would be in the running! Honestly the swabbies in the Navy are welcome to it…..and that from a man who has worked in Aldershot!! Found the ‘Last Rolo’ which was secreted on my bag by my Life Controller/ Care in the community coordinator…… Will miss you Viv❤️ (look forwards to seeing you in Marrakesh in a month….dont forget the clean under-crackers as I may well need them by then 🫣) Anyway hope you all enjoy Valentines Day; I will be sharing my valentines dinner with a fellow ‘hairy’ I met on the boat because if we select the Romantic Dinner opt...
Read more